Bhutan

Bhutan's national airlines, Druk Air, is the only airline permitted to fly into the themed airport of Paro, the only landing strip in the country. The airline has two planes, which each make one dramatic, winding, mountain-lined approach into the airport. They are fairly modern A319's, in good repair, each carrying less than 150 tourists -- capping the number of tourists at 300 per day.

In order to receive a visa, tourists must contract with one the many local tour companies, which are required to provide an all-inclusive service, for which they must charge a fixed price of $200 per day. I emailed a recommended agency called the Bhutan Travel Bureau, whose agent was was flexible and responsive. Our guide and driver met us at the airport, and whisked us through the mountains for 90 minutes to the capital of Thimpu, where we were put up in the adequate Druk Hotel (basic rooms with TV, decent indian food in the restaurant).

Along the drive, the guide related some of the enthusiasm I've heard from many the few Bhutanese I've spoken to. 2008, for them, marks the centennial of the country's monarchy, but also the beginning of the transition to democracy, instigated by the fourth king, who this year also voluntarily passed the crown to his 28-year old son. In March, a new parliament was formed, and given power over most civil and economic matters (the king retains foreign policy, religious, and military authority).

I've been asking about to see what actions the new democratically elected government has taken -- and the only concrete example I've heard is that they have brought forward the deadline for increasing the country's hyrdroelectric capacity from 2GW to 20GW by 2015 (previously it had been 2020). Hydroelectric power is the country's biggest export, and several of the Bhutanese I've spoken to are quite proud of the new dams being built.

It's a nice place, this -- not nearly as isolated as I had thought. There's satellite TV and Internet (at least in the hotels), and there seems to be a healthy trade of goods and services with India and Bangladesh beyond. No links to China yet, that I can see, but there are quite a few Chinese tour groups staying in our hotel. I was looking forward to see the people dressed in "national costume", but it turns out it's only required for office wear-- so yesterday in the evening most of the people strolling the streets were dressed like me.